2023 Vintage by Christy Canterbury, MW for Tim Atkin
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots | 95/100
This comes from a miniscule, o.18 ha parcel full of white stones at the top of Les Blanchots by Servin. Olivier prefers to vinify this in stainless steel to “keep its laciness”, and it is a delicate beauty. It smells of a summer garden kissed with dew. The palate fills up with citrus zest and Asian pear. A suspicion of tannin helps focus the exuberantly refreshing finish. Classy.
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses | 95/100
Reserved on the nose, this wine is still pulling itself together. The nose whispers of sweet cream, baking spice, summer peaches and wet stones. The palate is gently textured with glossy extract and lifting, integrated acidity. The sultry, lengthy finish shows off its age worthiness. The wine feels compacted and needs to fill out, like a vacuum-compressed mattress.
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir | 95/100
Floral flourishes, lemon curd, yuzu and crushed water crackers unfurl from the glass.The sizzling acidic tension is promptly met by supple mid-palate sap. Hazelnuts tack onto the gently tapering, sweet-fruited finish. Tempting now, this will only improve with time. Olivier aged 50% of the wine in barrels of two and three wines.
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonerre | 94/100
Chiseled, crunchy and wearing its AOC on its sleeve, this is highly reflective of its terroir. Pomelo rind, crushed shells and iodine rush onto the palate. This comes from the three sectors of this cru and sees exclusively stainless steel. The soaring acidity pulls the flavors into a salt-tinged and chalky finish.
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu | 93/100
Olivier used 15% oak here-both demi-muid and fut-but it’s so pure and taut that it’s hard to find their influence. Linear, properly firm and tightly wound, crushed chalk, smoky flint and donut peach scent the wine.
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume | 92/100
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons | 92/100
2023 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Tête d’Or | 91/100
