CHABLIS 2020
2020 Petit Chablis: The expressive nose is fruity yet manages to offer reasonably good Chablis typicity that carries over to the round, delicious and nicely vibrant middle weight flavors where the finish is at once mildly sweet though the salinity and bitter lemon character buffers it. This should drink well early on yet reward a few years of cellaring too. 87-89
2020 Chablis : (from 11 parcels scattered around Chablis, the most notable of which are in Les Pargues). A slightly cooler and quite pretty nose speaks mostly of citrus and quinine along with whiffs of iodine. The delicious and more vibrant medium weight flavors possess both good delineation and minerality while offering a more appealing texture on the bone-dry but not really austere finish. This is a very good villages and worth considering.
89-91
2020 Chablis – Tête d’Or : (from 2 parcels situated in the villages Bas de Chapelot raised in 25 to 30% five plus year old wood). A deft touch of wood sets off the ripe aromas of white orchard fruit, sea breeze and a hint of shellfish. The delicious and slightly richer flavors possess a touch more volume on the seductively textured, mouth coating and firmer finale. This is also lovely for its level and worth checking out.
89-92
2020 Chablis “Les Vaillons”: (from Séchet, Roncières, Châtains, Mélinots and Vaillons proper). Here too there is just enough wood present to bear mentioning on the more floral and spicier aromas of citrus blossom and mineral reduction. The delicious and almost painfully intense flavors are beautifully well-detailed while possessing a lovely texture on the sneaky long, saline and refreshing finish.
90-92
2020 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from a .25 ha parcel in Vaupoulent). A ripe yet classically styled nose is comprised by notes of mineral reduction, sea breeze, iodine and citrus peel. There is outstanding intensity to the voluminous and powerful yet reasonably refined flavors that terminate in a sappy and lingering finish. This could use better complexity though a few years of cellaring should help in that regard.
90-92
2020 Chablis “Vaulorent”: An all but mute note struggles to reveal its elegant aromas of white flowers, citrus, pear and a wisp of tidal pool. The delicious and notably more refined middle weight flavors possess a really lovely texture, indeed it’s really quite classy while the balanced finish is firm, serious and compact. At least some patience advised. 90-93
2020 Chablis “Mont de Milieu”: (from 4 different parcels of 35+ year old vines). There is a suggestion of the exotic to the aromas of white peach, passion fruit, quinine and citrus confit scents. The super-sleek and gorgeously textured medium bodied flavors brim with dry extract on the round and caressing but quite punchy, clean and refreshingly dry finale. This too is going to require at least some restraint. 91-93
2020 Chablis “Montée de Tonnerre”: (from a 2.5 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines – two thirds of the blend is from Chapelot and the remainder is from Pied d’Aloup and Montée de Tonnerre proper; the Pied d’Aloup vines were planted in 1935). This would be difficult to mistake for anything other than Chablis with its aromatic profile of oyster shell, iodine, citrus and acacia blossom, all trimmed in a delicate dollop of oak. The super-sleek, intense and stylish middle weight flavors are also quite classy and I very much like the balance. This is also notably firmer and very much built-to age. Excellent.
92-94
2020 Chablis – Les Blanchots: (from a small .18 ha parcel of vines planted in 1971 that directly abut Les Clos). Moderate wood stops short of being intrusive though it isn’t subtle on the essence of pear, apple, white peach and floral-scented nose that offers just enough Chablis character to be persuasive. The lavishly rich and generously proportioned larger-scaled flavors coat the palate with dry extract that is buffered but moderately firm acidity as well as the bracing salinity on the lingering finish. This is not quite as racy or refined as the Montée de Tonnerre but there is still plenty to like here.
91-94
2020 Chablis – Vaudésir: (from 3 parcels totaling .71 ha). A slightly fresher nose combines notes of floral and spice with those of more prominent Chablis character and in particular oyster shell. The detailed and noticeably more intense middle weight flavors brim with minerality that carries over to the balanced, wonderfully long and bitter lemon-inflected finish. This is lovely and a Vaudésir of finesse and delicacy that should age gracefully for a decade or more. 92-95
2020 Chablis – Bougros: (from a purchase of must). There is good Chablis character present in the form of green fruit, seashore and citrus nuances. The succulent, round and appealingly textured medium weight plus flavors possess very good power and punch while delivering fine length on the robust finish. This will need at least a few years of patience. 91-94
2020 Chablis – Valmur: (from a purchase of fruit). A fresh, pure and more complex nose grudgingly offers up aromas of iodine, citrus confit, shellfish and mineral reduction. Here too the larger-scaled flavors possess a lovely texture with slightly better energy on the powerful, focused, muscular and bracingly dry finish. This is very firm and while there is enough midpalate fat to allow this to be approached young, it should easily have the stuffing and requisite balance to reward extended cellaring.
92-95
2020 Chablis – Les Clos: (from a .44 ha parcel of vines planted in 1966). Subtle but discernible wood blends with ripe yet cool aromas of overtly floral lemon-lime, quinine and oyster shell .The sleek, intense and powerful big-bodied flavors manage to retain a highly appealing refinement along with plenty of minerality that seems to build from the mid-palate to the bitter lemon suffused finale. This could use better depth yet, much like the Valmur, there is sufficient structure and balance to allow this to age well for years.
92-95
2020 Chablis – Les Preuses: (from a .41 ha parcel of vines planted in 1952). Here the wood influence is quite subtle and easily allows the spicy, elegant, pure and airy aromas of white orchard fruit, quinine and iodine to shine. Once again there is a lovely refinement and underlying tension to the more modestly scaled flavors that also brim with minerality on the compact, bone-dry and beautifully focused finale. This is the class of the range in 2020, even if only just.
93-95
