Chablis 2023 by Allen Meadows
2023 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru | 92-94
(from a .41 ha parcel of vines planted in 1952; 25% wood). A much more subtle dollop of wood can be found on the cool, airy and elegant, even wafting, nose that blends notes of white orchard fruit, acacia, mineral reduction and shrimp shell nuances. The strikingly textured medium-bodied flavors also brim with sappy dry extract while displaying focused power on the equally compact, youthfully austere and lingering finish. This is very classy.
2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru | 92-94
(from a .37 ha parcel of vines planted in 1966; 50% wood). Very generous wood plays on the edge of overshadowing the overtly floral aromas of oyster shell, algae, green apple and mineral reduction. The sleek, intense and stony broad-shouldered flavors are also quite seductive thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine shaping the youthfully austere and beautifully long finish. This decidedly compact effort is a very dense 2023, indeed it’s almost thick, but the palate impression remains vibrant and balanced. This is going to need time in bottle though, not only because as noted it’s quite compact but also to eat the wood that is decidedly prominent at present.
2023 Chablis Les Blanchots Grand Cru | 92-94
(from a small .18 ha parcel of vines planted in 1971 that directly abut Les Clos; 100% stainless). Blanchots is not especially productive, especially near the top of the vineyard and consistent with this, Bailly noted that the yields in 2023 were 45 hl/ha, which he claims is the most that they have ever made. The elegant, cool and airy nose reflects notes of mineral reduction and a similar explosion of floral elements to the MdT where nuances of zest and quinine add breadth. There is fine volume to the vibrant medium weight flavors that display excellent length on the bone-dry, youthfully austere and markedly compact finale. This is a very fine 2023 that’s going to need at least some patience.
2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru| 91-94
(from a purchase of fruit that made one 600 L barrel). Once again the wood influence is present though not intrusive on the toasty and spicy nose of citrus rind, green fruit and plenty of classic Chablis elements. There is impressive volume to the super-sleek and notably powerful, even muscular, larger-scaled flavors that culminate in a markedly dry but only moderately dry finale. This too possesses fine development potential.
2023 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru | 91-94
2023 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru | 90-93
2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru | 91-94
2023 Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru | 91-93
2023 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru | 91-93
2023 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru | 91-94
2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru | 90-93
2023 Chablis Tête d’Or | 89-91
2023 Chablis | 88
2023 Petit Chablis | 86-89
