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Dear
fellow lover of fine wines.
The 2003 Chablis vintage at Domaine
Not easy to place this vintage within the palette of the last ten millésimes. The recollection of a possible comparison dates back to the famous 47
millésime which also emerged from a long heat wave, but one not quite as
strong and more spaced out over time. Spring 2003: After pruning from November to March, we had an early, warm Spring. 4 a.m. on April 7th in the vineyard: A drop in temperature of minus 9 centigrade was recorded. This was the final deathblow, after fighting against the frost for a whole week: at the dawn of this morning 30% of the harvest had been destroyed. 25 May-15 June. Heterogeneous flowering: By June 15th, , flowering had finished. As every year, we planned the date of harvesting using the 100-day rule (consisting of adding 100 days to the date of end of flowering). Harvesting was estimated at around September 23rd. The grapes which had escaped the frost were well formed: there is hope for a harvest of small size it is true, but not catastrophic. The quality of the vintage is not jeopardized. July: The heat became increasingly suffocating, storms threatened with the risk
of frost. 10-15 August: France swelters in a heat wave: The temperatures in the vineyard reached over 40_ centigrade. The grapes dried up , as if "burnt with a blowtorch", everything was scorched, came to a standstill, became concentrated; 20 to 30% of the harvest evaporated. 16 August: Faced with this situation which could well turn into a catastrophe, the decision to harvest was taken by numerous estates in Chablis.
Analyses conducted on our Estate
showed that the fruit had not quite reached full maturity. It was decided to wait and postpone harvesting until early September.
September 2nd
: It was right to wait As forecast, the rain retriggered the ripening cycle of the fruit.
September 5th: The
Estate declared the start of harvesting which lasted until The grapes brought into the pressing rooms were perfectly healthy. The skin of the grapes had filled out, thinned. They released a juice whose acidity had dropped after the rain, but which then increased and even became more assertive. Our choice was to harvest fully-ripened fruit and have the opportunity to re-balance the low acidity of some of the growths.
Vinification
raised no problem, malolactic fermentation continuing until completion. For the nose, floral notes predominate. In the mouth, the fruit has body, is voluptuous, has the lushness of flesh ripened but not scorched by the sun.The final notes are powerful, extending into lemon menthol pleasantly refreshing in the mouth. This vintage, exceptional through the climate, is CHABLIS indeed. Will this 2003 vintage be ageworthy? One certainty is that the Premiers Crus and Grands Crus are structured for 8 to 10 magnificent years. The qualities of their youth are immediately remarkable: their balance will be confirmed in adulthood. Informed connoisseurs will sense the emotion of a Fine Chablis, broad-shouldered, with body and matter. As always the iodine mineral and lemon menthol freshness are ever present.
Domaine BILLAUD-SIMON. |
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| 2004 HARVESTING | VINTAGE 2003 | CHABLIS VINEYARD | |
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