Essential
background knowledge for everyone wishing to learn, understand and
communicate on the Chablis vineyards
|
WHEN
TO DRINK WINE | 2004
HARVESTING
| VINTAGE
2003 | CHABLIS
VINEYARD | 2005
HARVESTING |
Geology
of the Chablis vineyard
1-
Geological origin of the vineyards: Kimmeridgian marl
derived from the depths of the sea.
2-
Formed during the secondary era: It is formed of white clay
and fossilized shells (Ostrea virgula).
3-
Specificity: With its very high iodine content,
the Kimmeridgian soil in Chablis gives this dry white wine an
inimitable character:
mineral with
"suave, salt iodine" notes which,
associated with lemon, bursts forth with mouth-filling freshness and
finesse.
The Chardonnay grape then becomes chablis.
Men
and the Chablis vineyards
4-
The Celts firstly, followed by the Romans were the first
winegrowers. It is said that Justinian the Roman organized the vineyards
around the configuration that we know today.
5-
In the XII and XIII centuries the Cistercian monks (Cluny
abbey) drew up the very first land register covering the best
wine-producing land in Chablis. Within
a radius of a few kilometres around the village of Chablis
and over a total surface area of
around 1800 hectares (1 hectare = 2.47
acres), the land register was divided into two categories: Chablis Première
and Chablis
Seconde. This classification is based on
the geology and geographical lie of the land.
The
vineyards
and
their first economic difficulties
6-
1865:
Destruction of the vines by the phylloxera plague. It took a whole
generation of winegrowers to restore the vines.
For replanting, the Chardonnay was solely grafted onto
phylloxera-resistant wood stock.
7-
Thereafter, Chablis and its Grandes Appellations came into
indisputable renown. The Chablis Grands Crus rivalled in quality and
worth with the Grands Crus from the Côte-d'Or
region: a Grand Cru Les Clos was marketed on the same price basis
as a Corton
Charlemagne or Bâtard Montrachet.
Burgundy flourished and prospered, predominating with its
high-ranking vineyards.
These were the
golden
1900's.
60
years of misery and agony....
The
sacrifice of generations!
8-
1914/1918 First World War: Many young winegrowers from
Chablis were lost in the tragedy. For the Chablis vineyards the losses
reached over 250 young men. With no more qualified labour the economy of
the vineyards collapsed, the land-owning upper middle class was ruined.
three quarters of the vines were uprooted. To survive, mixed farming was
introduced giving priority to cereals and livestock breeding. With the
dismantling of the
vineyards and growing of other crops, the microclimate underwent
change. Spring frosts brought havoc to the remaining vineyards, and it
became impossible to continue producing Chablis wine. Chablis
was lost to all commercial sectors both in France and abroad.
9-
1935:
Introduction of the Appellations d'Origine Controlée
(A.O.C.), the label guaranteeing the origin of wine.
10-
New Classification of the production areas under 4 Appellations:
Petit
Chablis – chablis
– chablis
premiers crus – chablis
grands crus.
The Premiers Crus and Grands Crus are identified by the name of the
"climat" (the name of the place of production as entered
in the land registry ). Example: chablis
premier cru montée de
tonnerre, chablis
grand cru Les clos.
11-
Establishment of a national institute to monitor origin labels:
Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (I.N.A.O.).
12-
1939/1945 Second World War: Chablis sank further and further
into immeasurable economic depression, the local wine trade became morose
if not to say inexistent. The winegrowers attempted to group together by
setting up a cooperative in the hope of preserving their profession. The
economic actors in Paris and its region abandoned Chablis to the benefit
of Sancerre wines, less exposed to frost with
more balanced production. In Burgundy only the Côte d'Or, with its
Grands Crus and better structured economy, was able to remain present on
the French and international market.
Renaissance
of the Chablis vineyards
13-
1960/1965: The Chablis vineyards slowly rose from their
ashes. The banks followed by industry turned to their
attention to the wine-producing universe. Mechanisation of the
grape crops was developed; the first vinification technologies
and modern Oenology were gradually introduced; sales outlets (United
States, Great Britain, Belgium) were re-opened; Estate bottling
became more widespread. Mixed farming progressively gave way to the
Grandes Appellations.
14-
1965-1970: The
activity of the vineyards became viable and prosperous once again.
Equipment to fight Spring frosts was
improved; the production of Chablis wines
became evenly distributed over a surface area of approximately 1800
hectares ;
the Grandes Appellations in the heart of
the vineyards restored panache and renown to the name Chablis.
Extension
of the appellations
15- 1970-1975:
The vineyards confirmed their renaissance. The villages around Chablis
were grouped together within the district of
Chablis. Villagers changed from cereal
crops to wine growing, for many it was a new profession.
Vines came to be planted
everywhere where the land had Appellation
registration,
regardless of the geology and lie of the land. The quality of the
wines and
the typicality of each area were no longer
an important item. Even further, some zones were reclassified to become
Chablis
Premier Cru or even Grand Cru. This runaway
extension led by a frenzy of speculation today covers a total of
around 4500 to
5000 hectares.
Chablis:
are its vineyards following along the right direction ?
16-
1980/2004:
Chablis wine is sold all over the world. The name has become magic
again, as it was under the reign of Louis XIV.
The extension of the growth region and its rapid expansion have not always
been accompanied by an equivalent improvement in quality.
17-
Across the world new producers are arriving on the market and
making their mark.
Competition
is opening up and is fierce.
18- To maintain their world leadership as producers of the greatest
Grandes Appellations,
the French vineyards and their true winegrowers must pay faultless
attention to care of the vines planted on the Grands Terroirs
benefiting from the best soil, slope
and climate.
19-
To resist and put to advantage their talent in this profession,
French winegrowers must work with love and passion, repelling speculators
and label profiteers. They must, unless they too may disappear, produce
little by concentrating on wines of exception. A necessity that also
applies to the Chablis vineyards.
New
generations of winegrowers
20- Chablis,
a new generation of young winegrowers has perfectly gauged the importance
of the soil and the quality of the wines
it can yield. More particularly,
these young winegrowers are able to merge
modernity and tradition with talent. The profession of
winegrower is refocusing on the
vine. Vinification is better carried out with more suitable equipment. The
questioning of some
cultivation practices and
methods is a current issue. Harsh filtration, tartaric cold-precipitation
etc..
are the subject of in-depth
thinking on the Estates which
invest, research and work on perfection. The long-standing reputation of
winegrowing France will
be built upon products of
exception and not upon abundance and the ordinary.
Bernard Billaud-Simon.